MASSACHUSETTS

WESTERN MASSACHUSETTS: 

US Route 20 in the Hill Towns

Contributor Article:

By Joe Manning

From Hancock Shaker Village just west of Pittsfield, to Fenway Park in Boston, US Route 20 winds over, around, and through a variety of landscapes that make Massachusetts one of America’s most diverse states. If you are heading east from upstate New York, the speed of the Massachusetts Turnpike (Route 90) is likely to lure you up the ramp at the interchange in Lee. If you do, you will miss the bucolic stretch of single-lane asphalt that wanders in and out of quiet hill towns, and follows the rocky Westfield River.

When you get to Lee, stop for a bite at Joe’s Diner, which is on the left, just over the railroad tracks. The simple American food, folksy atmosphere, and mementos on the walls are apt to slow you down and get you in the mood for a lazy country drive. Local favorite and former owner Joe Sorrentino manned the counter for 45 years, but finally retired and sold the place two years ago. The diner is the scene for The Runaway, one of Norman Rockwell’s most beloved paintings. Some of the regulars are disappointed with the new ownership, but I found the food good and the service friendly. It’s open daily from 5:30am to 9pm (413-243-9756).

 A half-mile from the diner, don’t miss the nostalgic streetscape in downtown Lee. The two blocks of mostly well-preserved 19^th century buildings include a real curio ¾ a five and dime called H.A. Johansson. It’s not exactly Woolworth’s, but rummaging through the merchandise is an exercise in time travel.

At the other end of the scale is Prime Outlets at Lee, which sits high on a hill. You can’t miss the sign near the entrance. It’s an impressive collection of stores, and the panoramic view is worth a look. For more information about Lee, check out www.leechamber.org.

 Several miles east of Lee, Route 20 takes on a charming rural character. Watch out for a confusing junction in Becket, where the road connects to Route 8. Be sure to stay to the left. Becket is the home of Jacob’s Pillow, an internationally known center for dance. Their website is www.jacobspillow.org.

 When you reach Chester, a town with a rich railroad heritage, turn left on the road (there’s no street sign) where you see the big sign for Chester Village. You’ll drive by some elegant, tree-shaded houses, and then reach the railroad tracks and the old train station. Nearby is a lovingly restored building, now an upscale restaurant called A. Willard. The owner, an exuberant young woman, told me that the place used to be a “shoot-em up saloon.” It serves lunch and dinner Tuesday through Saturday and brunch on Sundays (413-354-2200).

Just a bit farther east on Route 20 is a gem not to be missed ¾ a combination restaurant (Carms) and gas station (Charlie’s Garage) that has been run by the same family for 53 years. Carms is the kind of cozy local establishment that travelers dream about. The brightly decorated interior and inexpensive home-cooked food will have you talking all the way home. They are open from 7am to 2pm, Wednesday through Sunday (413-354-7740).

Further information about the town of Chester can be found at http://homepages.rootsweb.com/~shirleyb/jacobsladder/trackchester.html.

 The 10-mile trip to Huntington follows the railroad tracks and the Westfield River. If the beautiful scenery and the twists and turns of the road don’t slow you down, nothing will. At first glance, Huntington appears to be the area’s most humble community, but the observant visitor will find much to appreciate. Park by the green and stroll on tiny Main Street.

Make sure you drop by Huckleberry’s Bakery and Café for coffee and something sweet. If you’re lucky, a freight train will rumble through town. Huckleberry’s is open from 5am to 3pm, Monday through Saturday, and 5am to noon on Sunday. On the opposite side of Main is a musty antiquarian bookshop that is a browser’s delight. Ida Read Books is open 10am to 3pm, Tuesday through Saturday.

Across Route 20 is the Bantam Rooster, yet another small-town jewel. The dark wood interior, soda fountain/candy counter, vintage cash register, and old photos under the glass-topped tables have to be seen to be believed. Locals say the food is tasty, but a little unpredictable. Hours vary depending on the season. Call ahead (413-667-0001).

Before leaving town, take a walk over the green railroad bridge. The view of the village from the other side is worth the detour.

 Route 20 continues along the Westfield River to Russell. Every April, the Westfield River Canoe Races take place here. It’s one of the biggest events of the year, attracting thousands of onlookers along the river. This is one more stretch that deserves serious attention. There are several places to pull over and walk down to the river. Bring your camera.

When you get to the city of Westfield, the turnpike will return. If you are tempted to take it, think about what you might miss on the next stretch of historic US Route 20.

 Joe Manning is the author of two popular and critically acclaimed books about North Adams: Steeples and Disappearing Into North Adams. This historic Massachusetts mill town in the Berkshires has been experiencing a cultural renaissance since the opening of the Massachusetts Museum of Contemporary Art in 1999 (www.massmoca.org). North Adams is north of Route 20, just 30 minutes from Pittsfield. Information about Manning’s books can be found at www.sevensteeples.com, or contact the author at Flatiron Press, 575 Bridge Road, Unit 9-1, Florence, MA 01062 (413-584-0679).